1. The cable run is over 328 ft (100 m)
Symptoms: no link light, a link that comes up at 100 Mbps instead of 1,000, drops under load.
Why: copper Ethernet is limited to 328 ft for the whole channel, patch cords included.
Fix: measure the actual cable, not the yard. If it’s a little over, an outdoor PoE extender in the middle ($37.99) resets the limit once. If it’s well over, swap to fiber ($60.06–$79.98 for the converters) or a bridge.
2. The bridge has no real line of sight
Symptoms: weak signal in the radio app, slow speeds, drops in wind or rain, worse in summer.
Why: trees and leaves add loss at 5 GHz, and the radio beam needs about 60% of the Fresnel zone clear, not just a thin line.
Fix: raise one or both radios, re-aim, or go around with a relay hop. If no clear path exists, dig fiber.
3. Lightning or a surge killed ports or cameras
Symptoms: after a storm, one end has dead switch ports, a dead camera or a radio that won’t power up.
Why: a copper cable between buildings ties their grounds together; a nearby strike can push current through it.
Fix: replace the damaged gear, then add a surge protector ($11.69–$14.14) at each building, bonded to that building’s ground. If it keeps happening, replace the copper with fiber. Full guide.
4. Cameras need inbound access, and you’re behind CGNAT
Symptoms: cameras or a recorder work on home Wi-Fi but not from your phone in town; DDNS or port-forward setup fails.
Why: By default Starlink uses CGNAT for IPv4 (100.64.0.0/10), which blocks all inbound ports.
Fix: switch to the maker’s cloud or P2P app, or set up Tailscale. Three fixes, step by step.
5. The wrong cable went in the ground
Symptoms: worked fine for weeks or months, then errors, slow speeds or drops, often after heavy rain or a thaw.
Why: indoor or plain outdoor cable isn’t built to sit in wet soil. Direct-burial cable has a polyethylene jacket and water-blocking gel or tape.
Fix: replace it with direct-burial cable ($149.99 for 500 ft), ideally in conduit so the next swap is a pull, not a dig.
Questions people ask
Why does my long Ethernet run only connect at 100 Mbps or keep dropping?
Most often it’s over 328 ft, a bad termination, or water in cable that wasn’t made for burial. Test the cable with a tester and measure the run.
My barn link worked in winter and fails in summer. Why?
Leaves. A wireless bridge that sees through bare branches can lose the link when trees leaf out. Mount higher, relay around the trees, or dig fiber.
Sources
- Category 6 cable - Wikipedia (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- Interline: Fresnel Zone, Link Clearance and Signal Loss in Outdoor Wi-Fi Links (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- Fresnel zone - Wikipedia (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- Cabling Installation & Maintenance: Ground potentials and damage to LAN equipment (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- Starlink Help: What IP address does Starlink provide?, read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- trueCABLE Cat6 Direct Burial Ethernet Cable Unshielded, checked Oct 5, 2026
- POE Texas GAT-Extender IEEE 802.3af/at gigabit outdoor (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- TP-Link TL-POE10E (indoor, Fast Ethernet) (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- 10Gtek Gigabit SM media converter, dual SC, 1000Base-LX, 20 km (2-pack) (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- MC220L (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- MC220L (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- MC220L (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- 10Gtek 1000Base-LX SFP 20 km (store.10gtek.com) (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- 10Gtek 1000Base-LX 10 km, pack of 2 ($22.99/2) (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- 10Gtek 1000Base-LX 10 km, pack of 8 ($80/8) (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- ETH-SP-G2 (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026
- ETH-SP-G2 (secondary), read in search results, checked Oct 5, 2026
- Voltive V-1236-1 Cat6 Direct Burial Gel Filled, 500 ft (secondary), checked Oct 5, 2026